ARE YOUR HANDS TOO CLOSE TO THE TIRES?

For many years I dealt with my hands being closer to my tires than I liked. In time I discovered something which could and would change this. It involves buying new handlebars. Catrike’s 559 model has taller handlebars than all their other models. I don’t know why that is but I am not complaining. I took advantage of it. My original handlebars were from a 2009 Trail. They were reused on my 2013 Trail frame when Catrike replaced my 2009 frame under warranty. The wrist rests did not exist in 2009 so when I bought the 559 handlebars I got the mouning bars for the wrist rests. I took advantage of that and bought the wrist rests … one of the best upgrades I ever made.

I ride on our local trails and some of them follow along our local rivers. They tend to flood over and river silt gets deposited on them making a muddy mess. With my hands so close to the tires mud builds up on my brake levers and twist shifters. It is a muddy mess to deal with. I no longer have that problem now that those components are higher up away from the tires.

This picture shows that the 559 handlebars are taller than the Trail’s handlebars.

Yes, replacing my original handlebars with 559 handlebars was a great decision. It raised my hands up higher away from the tires and provided a way to mount wrist rests. I like it when a plan comes together. So if you deal with this same issue you might want to try this.

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ANOTHER FROM THE ARCHIVES … MAGPED

1ST POSTED NOVEMBER 30, 2020

MAGPED … another magnetic pedal offering for foot retention

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=magped+pedals

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NEW ADJUSTABLE CRANKARMS FROM HASE

Hase is offering a great looking product … adjustable crankarms which can be set between 65 mm and 165 mm … quicklly, easily … and without the use of tools. HERE is an article about them on Recumbent News. Adjustable crankarms are never cheap but these are super expensive ($452US, 350 Eur). They are really nice though. As you can see in the picture there is a red button to push to adjust them.

Like a chain gobbler these would be really nice for dealerships which allow customers to ride their bikes and trikes trying them out. Unfortunately the bicycle industry does not  offer shorter crankarms on their cycles. Many of us could greatly benefit from using shorter crankarms.

I have written about shortened crankarms previously.

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EL CHEAPO BRAKE PADS

 

Several months ago I bought some really cheap (low cost) brake pads off of Ebay. When I say low cost I am talking $3 for one set. Compare that with $21 for the Avid brand. Avid BB-7 is the brake pad involved. I installed a pair of these low cost brake pads and am happy to report that they have been performing great. It is time to replace them now which I will probably do today. I sure can’t complain about them. They have done every bit as well as the Avid brand … maybe even better. I just checked and I have almost 7000 miles on my trike since I installed these low cost brake pads. I don’t have records of the mileage I have got out of name brand Avid BB-7 brake pads so I really can’t compare. I am just going by the time factor the best I recollect it. I don’t think the name brand pads lasted any longer time-wise.  Certainly having great working reliable brakes is quite important. Based on my experience with these brake pads I would highly recommend them to everybody. There is a problem however. They now cost about $10 a pair.  I am glad I bought several pair when I did. Ah ha! That seller may not offer that price anymore but I just found another one which is lower yet … $9 for 4 pair … that is $2.25 apiece. And the shipping is free. Of course, I don’t know anything about them so I can’t recommend them. There maybe others offered thru Ebay but I stopped looking. I don’t know about you but I like saving money and finding great deals. Hey, be safe out there so you can …

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MagLOCK PEDALS

Clipping In” isn’t for everybody. I am among those who don’t like using SPD pedals and shoes. There are various options one can use in place of the SPD system. One option is magnetic pedals and the leader in this seems to be MagLOCK. It is not inexpensive … starting at $110. And that is just for the pedals. You still need to have shoes with a steel plate so the system will work. Regular SPD bike shoes will work and a steel plate and screws comes with the pedals which fits on the shoe replacing the SPD clip. Anyway, MagLOCK offers two different models … their original known as Fort Knox which sells for $175 and Stealth model which sells for $110.

If you are interested in viewing more MagLOCK videos click HERE.

The MagLOCK company offers a rather unique thing. For $135 one can “try out” the Fort Knox pedals which normally sell for about $175. Used pedals  which have been returned are involved. You can read about this program by clicking HERE. You can keep the used pedals for the $135 price or if you want new pedals you return the used ones and pay the$40  difference.

One can add or remove magnets in the pedals to change the magnetic strength. Of course, there is only room for so many magnets inside so there is a limit to increasing the magnetism.

With this system one can move their foot about on the pedal pretty much wherever they want it. That is a big plus for some riders. I have only heard good reports/comments about these pedals. If I were a rich man I might even give them a try. For sure we all need to stay safe out there and …

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DIRECT VS INDIRECT STEERING

Utah Trikes has produced quite a few good videos. Here is one about the subject of direct vs indirect steering. It covers it pretty well and even explains Ackerman Steering.

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INERTIA OR STORED ENERGY … TORQUE SENSOR

One thing I have noticed since I started using my current hub motor which presently is hand throttle only is that when applying electrical power to the motor it seems to store energy somehow and my trike when I let off the hand throttle will and can coast faster and longer than if I were simply pedaling under human power only. It is considerably noticeable. I am not sure what the term is for this. I titled this post Inertia or Stored Energy but neither one may be correct.

 

I have a new (never installed) torque sensor for the bottom bracket (crankset). I bought one when I bought my e-motor conversion kit from Grin Technologies. It required a different crankset than what came on my Catrike so I spent good money to buy one. With my assistance and guidance my LBS installed the torque sensor with this new crankset but the unit was faulty and never worked. Grin Technologies told me that this particular torque sensor has been very troublesome and many have not worked.  Of course, they didn’t tell me this until after I bought it and spent all this extra money to install it. It was a lot of wasted money. Grin Technologies had me send it back to them and they sent me a different torque sensor and, of course, it required yet another crankset. Consequently I never installed this 2nd torque sensor as I just didn’t/haven’t had the money to go thru all of this again. I am considering it now however. I would really like to have true pedal assist and not just a hand throttle. Some hub motors have a torque sensor built into them and are located inside the hub motor. Unfortunately mine does not. I don’t like anything about this “after market” approach as I call it. It is a very poor way to accomplish this. The unit is difficult to install and it is very easily damaged as it has extremely tiny wires which break very easily. That is my story and I am stuck with it as well as sticking to it. I spent the money for a torque sensor initially as I wanted a system that “felt natural” when pedaling. That is still my goal. I need to take the torque sensor into my LBS so they can figure out what is needed in the way of a crankset, discover one and get it ordered. As many of you know having a hand throttle only presents a problem sometimes as it violates some trail rules. Personally I think it is ridiculous but it is the way it is. Remedying this situation will help ensure that I can …

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AN OUNCE OF PREVENTION STILL EQUALS …

I am sure most of us remember the saying “an ounce of prevention equals a pound of cure” … or … “is worth a pound of cure”. It proved true today while I was out on my daily ride. The small bolt (machine screw) which holds my flag pole holder onto the back of my seat frame broke off and everything went south. At least it tried to. Fortunately I have a plastic cable tie around the flag holder bracket securing it to another place nearby which does not allow the flag holder to fall down onto the ground. I also have my two flag poles connected together by a small elastic bungee cord which prevents the loss of a flag as I ride along. Between these two safeguards I didn’t lose anything. I replaced the broken bolt upon arriving back home and everything is good to go. I have lost various stuff before so taking these preventative measures have paid off.

In the picture below you can see the black bungee cord connecting the two flag poles together.

And here is the plastic cable tie (yellow) which saved the loss of the flag holder. The red line points to the bolt that broke.

Yep, an ounce of prevention still equals (is worth) a pound of cure.

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RIDING IN AN OVEN (HEAT)

Much of the nation (United States) has been rather hot lately and being out there riding is like riding in an oven.  It reminds me of my motorcycling days. Once it gets into the 90s F (30s C) it doesn’t seem to help riding fast as all you feel is very hot air. Having e-assist I normally ride much faster than I can and do ride without it. And normally riding fast … I am talking about 16 to 23 mph … means I feel a lot of air movement which usually feels really good. But when the air temperature is in the 90s it doesn’t matter how fast I ride it just feels miserable. Going fast just doesn’t help. I am not a fan of heat so riding in it is not very enjoyable for me. I don’t know how long this hot weather is going to last but looking at the extended weather forecast isn’t encouraging. That being said I am most thankful for the e-assist and my canopy as they help immensely. I still get rather warm but nothing at all like I would be without them. Before I had them I was one of many who chose to start riding early in the morning (6 to 7 AM) when it was at its coolest part of the day and be done riding by 11 AM or so when it was starting to feel pretty warm. There are things a person can do to help stay a bit cooler. I am always amazed when I see people out in hot weather dressed in black or other dark clothing as there is nothing more miserable one could wear than black when it comes to absorbing the sun’s rays. I always try to wear white or other light colored clothing which reflect most of the sun’s rays. I also see people wear hooded sweatshirts with the hoods up in this hot weather. I mean, what’s up with that? I think perhaps they have some elevator issues … as in … their elevator doesn’t go all the way to the top floor. Wearing hats, helmets and such traps heat from leaving one’s head. With a canopy I don’t wear anything on my head but if I ride without my canopy I wear a visor type hat that is open in the top. I would be super miserable wearing a regular hat which keeps all that heat trapped. One could also wear self-wicking clothing or special clothing designed to be wet and help cool our bodies. There is a hat being advertised on TV lately that does this. Of course, one can always pour water over themselves to cool off. That definitely works. Hey, whatever it takes to …

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A Review of an Azub Touring Setup

From the “land down under” (Australia) comes this video I share here. This triker,  Darren Broadhurst, is among the few who is on an ongoing trike journey around the world. He rides an Azub Ti-Fly 20 inch  … which is a fully suspended model.

His video channel description … “After retiring from a full military career I’ve been cycling and travelling around the world for the past 4 years. These are the videos along the way.”

Other videos available from this fellow triker.

His website … every which way but lost.

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ALL THOSE IN FAVOR OF GETTING RID OF PRESTA VALVES …

Most all of us grew up with Schrader valves as Presta valves were unheard of. But as time passed along came “skinny Minnie” and the controversy began. I had never heard of Presta valves until I bought my 2009 Catrike Trail which came with them. It didn’t take more than a couple of days before I learned to hate Presta valves. I say that the French can have them. I think they are ridiculous. So soon after purchasing my trike I took action and did something about this. I drilled out my rims to accommodate Schrader valves and never looked back. I have not had to deal with Presta valves since. HERE is a good article on this subject.

I vote for getting rid of Presta valves. I sure would not miss them. There is only one thing about Presta valves that I like and that is the threaded metal stem with the nut which tightens down keeping the stem from pushing into the rim. At least 3 inner tube manufacturers offer this feature on their Schrader valves and I use them whenever I can.

I am totally amazed when I hear/read of cyclists who actually like and prefer Presta valves over Schrader. It is one of those “I don’t get it” things … like … what’s wrong with them? Oh well, to each his own as they say. Hey, if Schrader valves were good enough for Benjamin Franklin’s dad they are good enough for me. What did I just say? Oh never mind. Just know that I am for Schrader valves and against ol’ skinny Minnie. France can keep them. Schrader valves work just fine. They help me to …

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TRY BEFORE YOU BUY

Face it, there is simply wisdom in trying as many trikes out before purchasing one. They are not cheap to buy and once they leave the store their value usually drops off considerably. Some dealers will work with customers if they are dissatisfied with their purchase but there is no guarantee of that. It can be risky business to buy a trike you end up regretting and facing the aftermath. So common sense dictates that we do our homework or should I say leg work (actually both) and go check trikes out riding as many as you can and if possible any you find yourself interested in taking a much longer ride on them as it may help you discover something that wasn’t noticed on a short ride. I don’t know how many dealers there are around which are willing to do this, especially if they don’t have easy ready access to someplace customers could ride from their store and be gone for an extended ride. I don’t know what their policies are as far as requiring a security deposit to take a trike out for an extended ride. That reminds me of a true story of a business neighbor I once had. I had a welding shop and he had an automotive transmission repair business. A guy came into his place of business asking to borrow a log chain. The business owner told him it would require a security deposit. The guy told the business owner if I had that much money I would just buy one. The business owner told him that if he didn’t bring the chain back he did just buy one. I fully agree with the business owner in his practice of requiring a security deposit of a sufficient amount to cover replacing the chain. So I don’t know if any trike dealers require a security deposit to cover the cost of the trike but I can’t say as I blame them if they do. Anyway, good hunting and may you find the trike that is just right for you.

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HOW TO GET INTO AND OUT OF THE SEAT OF A TADPOLE TRIKE

am sure some of you have seen people trying to sit themselves down on a tadpole trike and going about it all wrong. And for anyone who has physical issues such as balance, lack of mobility, etc. it can be dangerous to attempt if not being done properly. There are basically two ways to go about sitting down on a tadpole trike. One method is to step over the boom. The other method is to back up straddling the boom. Stepping over the boom can be quite dangerous and risky for some people, myself included, as they may misstep and trip themselves causing a nasty fall. As the saying goes, BEEN THERE, DONE THAT … AND DON’T WANT A REPEAT PERFORMANCE. So I always straddle my boom and back up. This video by Laid Back Cycles illustrates all of this as well as the assist bars which can be added to a trike.

Years ago I came upon these pictures another trike dealership made up. They are funny so I am including them here.

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RECUMBENT TRIKES – THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE

Recumbent Trikes – The Essential Guide (2019 Edition)

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CLIPPING IN … YOUR CHOICE

 

Most of us are familiar with “leg suck” where the rider of a tadpole trike  can experience their foot dropping down off of the pedal and onto the pavement where it is then drug underneath of the crossmember of the frame resulting in serious painful injury.

One of the main ways of preventing this from happening is the use of special shoes/sandals and pedals known as SPD. Although this system is quite popular it is not the only means of preventing leg suck from occurring. I have written about all of this before and I am not hear to do so again. I am writing this article because something keeps happening over and over again which ruffles my feathers. There are many people who insist that others use these SPD shoes and pedal. They try to force their will onto others. On trike forums this happens all the time. There are various reasons why some of us don’t like SPD shoes and pedals and don’t care to use them.

I have used them and I am one of those who don’t like them. My reasons don’t really matter but I will share it anyway. First of all even if I didn’t have any issues with my feet (which I do have) I don’t like to “clip in” because I want to be able to remove my feet from the pedals quickly and easily. If I were to tip over I don’t want my feet clipped to the pedals. If I were to be involved in a wreck I don’t want my feet clipped to the pedals. I could get seriously injured or be unconscious and my feet would still be clipped in. That concerns me. Even if someone were to come along and happen to know how to release the clips it might be painful and even cause more injuries. And if first responders have no idea how to release the clips that would also pose a problem.

Another reason I don’t like using SPD is because I have neuropathy in my feet. That is nerve damage for those who don’t know what neuropathy is. As a result of the nerve damage my feet hurt all the time and are quite sensitive. Being clipped in is rather uncomfortable for me.

Many people object to being clipped in because of foot discomfort. Like me they need to be able to move their feet around a bit on the pedals. Also many people find the SPD shoes/sandals uncomfortable to wear and need to wear comfortable shoes/sandals while riding.

I would never consul anyone to not use some sort of protection against leg suck even though there are those who don’t have a problem with their feet gong down onto the pavement if their feel get bounced off of the pedals. Some tadpole trike riders do not use any means of protection and do just fine without it. I am one of those people. I have spent money on various protective systems and used them. However, I stopped using them and just ride with BMX platform pedals wearing whatever footwear I want to and do just fine.

In closing I just want to appeal to others to stop trying to force your personal preference and opinion of the matter onto others. Leave them alone and let them choose whatever they want to use in this matter. There is nothing wrong with educating a “newbie” about the danger of leg suck and perhaps the various options available to help prevent it from happening. Please stop at that. It is their choice, not yours. And may we all …

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MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL

I put together this video for this occasion.  Yes, it is a repeat from 2018. I have decided to offer it every Christmas Day each year. It is a compilation of images of recumbent trikes out in the snow … riding in a winter wonderland. Merry  Christmas to each and everyone of you. May you truly know and embrace the reason for the season. 

BTW, we hear all the time that Jesus is the reason for the season. That is not really true. We are the reason for the season. Jesus did not come to earth for Himself. He came for us. We are the reason He came to dwell among us. He did all He could do … all that He needed to do … accomplishing the mission He was on. “The ball is in our court”. The video further below tells the story of the man and the birds. It is a beautiful illustration of what God did for us.

I love this story Paul Harvey is well known for telling … The Man and the Birds:

Christmas is known for gift giving. If you have not already done so please consider taking advantage of this limited time offer …

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MY NEW CANOPY

For many years I have wanted a canopy on my trike. However I could never afford one and although I can fabricate everything I lack the sewing skills and equipment needed to make the material part of it. I mean … the frame isn’t going to do me much good without the material over it. Those small diameter poles/rods just don’t provide much shade. 😉

Recently a posting on Facebook Recumbent Trikes Group showed a kayak canopy installed on a tadpole trike. It looked pretty good and the price … well, let’s just say it is affordable … like $56 with free shipping from Amazon. With another $15 for various hardware type items I had a canopy for a total of about $71. BTW, after buying mine thru Amazon for $56 I found it for only $36 on Ebay. That is par for the course. Right now as I compose this the price on Ebay is higher than $36 as it seems to fluctuate. Even so Ebay offers it for less than Amazon.

As you can see I selected the safety orange which, of course, adds even more to safety as I ride as it really stands out. Of course, like all other colors and fabric it fades out some by the sun as time goes by.

I have seen other canopies on tadpole trikes and watched them bob around every which way. I am pleased to report that this kayak canopy is very stable. I have had it up to 28 mph in 16 mph winds and it was rock solid. I am very pleased with it. (And I have been out in even stronger winds since I first wrote this. It did great!) And it is larger than most trike canopies so it offers a little bit more protection. It measures 2 foot wide by 4 foot long and the rear vertical part comes down 7.5 inches. I didn’t know if I would like the rounded front end as all the canopies I have ever seen are rectangular.

The material is some sort of nylon (I think) and it is made like a sleeve (pillowcase) which simply slides over the frame. The frame is aluminum tubing like modern day tent poles … sections which fit together and have an elastic cord inside of them connecting them all together. Being aluminum tubing rather than fiberglass rods they don’t flex nearly as much which is what makes the canopy so stable. I shortened the height of the canopy by 7.5 inches to get it closer to my head so that it offers increased protection. I had to add the arched support piece to hold the canopy up higher in the back so it is away from my head. Once I get up to 8 mph the air moving against the material will raise it up and back and keep it off of me but I didn’t like it touching me when I slow down or stop so I added the support piece to eliminate the problem.

I added an additional support to raise the canopy up higher right above my head. That way I can have the canopy down as low as practical to provide maximum shade and protection.

There is plenty of “spring” in the aluminum tubing so that when the front is not hooked down into riding position it raises way up out of the way making it easy to get on and off of the trike. Please note that it is very necessary and important to hang onto the front tie down(s) if unhooked when it is windy. If it is windy I immediately refasten the canopy back down once I have gotten up out of the seat as the wind could do damage to the frame of the canopy.

I first mounted it using plastic cable ties just to get an idea what it would look like as well as help me figure out what I needed to do to come up with a proper mounting system. It was a fairly easy task and what I came up with works great. I used two 15 inch long pieces of 1/2 PVC pipe with caps on the bottom so the canopy tubes can’t go past the bottom end of the PVC pipe.

With this setup it is very quick and easy to install and remove the canopy from the trike. It takes about the same amount of time as it does to put my two safety flags in their holders. Again, I could not be more pleased with the way this all works.

Here is my view with the canopy in place …

As you can see I have a V tie down which I prefer over the single tie down in the center of the front. The V is more stable than a single cord in the center and it eliminates having to look thru a single tie down in front. It fastens down to the front derailleur post. I removed the plastic plug in the post and replaced it with a rubber pipe plug. I used a 5/16 eye bolt in a rubber pipe plug replacing the 5/16 inch bolt which came in the rubber plug.

And here is the front view …

And here is the rear view. As you can see I have complete protection from the sun on my backside which is really nice. Much to my surprise and delight it does not cut off the air flow any appreciable amount.

 

Here is a closeup view of the mounting area …

I already had some of the clamps used to mount the PVC pipe on the top end to the seat frame.

I bought these others shown in the picture below. I got 5/8 inch for the PVC pipe and 1 inch for the trike frame  (rear stays) at the bottom of the PVC pipe.

Since I first posted this I have redone the top mount of the pvc tubing on the top of the seat back frame. I did away with the plastic pieces replacing them with the same kind of clamps I used on the seat back frame … only a smaller diameter clamp.

The bottom line is … At this point I am a happy camper with this canopy setup.

I may try tinkering with it … adding something onto the sides to help provide more shade. But for now for a fairly low cost I have a very functional canopy and my plan is to …

KEEP ON TRIKIN’

If you are interested I have written other articles about canopies previously.

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Below is a video of another triker’s kayak canopy …

And here is his video showing how he mounted his canopy …

 

Lastly here is his video showing how to lower the canopy by shortening the aluminum tubes …

MOUNTING HEADLIGHTS AND OTHER ACCESSORIES

A guy (or gal) just can’t have too many headlights. Ha Ha! One thing about it … ya gotta have some place and some way to mount them as well as computers, smartphones, GPS nagivation, mirrors, etc.  Fortunately there are options available. If you’ve got the money somebody will come to your rescue. Not all of the various means of mounting these devices is expensive, but it can get that way with some of the mounts. Some mounts are after market made by a third party and are fairly generic and fit most trikes. Some are specifically made for brand and even model. Some are a trike brand manufacturer but will work on other trike brands. All that being said if you don’t know what is available you will probably be at a loss and need some help from someone who does. I am afraid I can’t be of much help to you so don’t even ask. I am just reporting what little I know and think I understand on the matter.

There are a few different options for mounting to the front derailleur post …

Below is a Minoura Swingrip Accessory mount …

Below is a TerraCycle (not to be confused with TerraTrike) Light Mount …

Greenspeed makes a neat looking mount …

Here is an ICE mount made to bolt onto the water bottle mount on the front derailleur post …

TerraTrike does offer various mounts for lights and accessories …

This is a boom mount for a TerraTrike Rover …

I used to use this item to mount lights on although mine was black …

I used to have 3 headlights … two on the mount like shown above and the third on the Catrike accessory mount built into the front derailleur post …

Since I rarely ride after dark I decided to remove two of them so I just went back to using the original built in horizontal post on the front derailleur post.

There is also a product called The Nob, but it doesn’t seem to be available and no one seems to know when it will be …

As you can see this KMX trike has sufficient mounts for computers, GPS device and mirrors …

 

There are even axle mounts …

And then there are a bit more elaborate products …

Catrike cockpit mount …

Here is an offering from TerraCycle which I personally use along with the Catrike Cockpit Mounts. It is called a “cockpit mini-Tee” …

 

 

I have my computers mounted to them.  Here is the one on the left side …

There are other similar products available.  Most of them are to aid the rider in getting up out of the seat.

Be safe out there and …

ENJOY THE RIDE!

FREE GIFT awaits you!

NOW YOU STAY (ALL ABOUT PARKING BRAKES)

NOW YOU STAY!!!

There is a joke about a woman who drives her car into the parking lot at a shopping center to do a bit of shopping. A man nearby sees her exit her vehicle and then turn toward the car pointing her finger saying “Now you stay!” Thinking she is talking to her car he says to her … “Lady, why don’t you just put it in ‘park’?” What he couldn’t see from his vantage point is the small dog seated inside the car which the lady was talking to.

Now that has absolutely nothing to do with tadpole trikes, but I thought it was appropriate to lead into what I want to discuss here … some means of getting our trikes to ‘stay’ when we dismount and leave our trikes unattended.

Both ICE and HP Velotechnik offer a parking brake … either a caliper type or disc type as both are options.  If any other manufacturers offer a parking brake I am not aware of it.

That being said, Catrike now comes with locking brake levers … a huge improvement over the Velcro strap they used to provide.

So unless your trike comes with some sort of parking brake or locking brake levers you need to come up with some means of keeping your trike where you leave it as I assure you that saying to your trike “now you stay” isn’t going to work.

Using a Velcro strap works, but are a pain in the neck to use in my opinion.

I have also used a heavy duty rubber band of sorts to wrap around the twist grip and hook both ends around the brake lever. This worked pretty good, but again it was a bit of a pain to use.

And I used plastic cable ties which also worked pretty good. It only required one hand to use it. I much preferred it over the Velcro strap.

There are locking parking brake levers which are my preference. They are what I have used for several years now.

For me to use them they require two hands to engage the lock.  They sure beat using the Velcro strap method.

There are other ways to keep your trike from taking off on its own, but these are the most common means that I am aware of.

One thing I want to mention is that if your trike has a rear brake it is intended to be used strictly as a parking brake. Braking the rear wheel, especially by itself with no front brake application, can be dangerous and have bad consequences. The two front brakes on a tadpole trike are plenty powerful and effective enough to stop a trike. There is no need of using a rear brake.

Regardless of what means you use to keep your trike from departing the scene without you aboard I hope you can always …

KEEP ON TRIKIN’

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