HOW TO SET TOE IN ON A TADPOLE TRIKE

Toe in adjustment is another subject I have covered several times. Proper toe in adjustment is most important for proper and safe handling as well as achieving maximum tire wear. When I first bought my Catrike Trail the Catrike dealer had set up the toe in a full one inch off. It was hard to pedal and handled horribly. And it wore the two front tires out in only 30 miles. Here is a video covering the subject …

Most tadpole trikes are pretty much the same but there can be some differences with some brands. And trikes with direct steering are different than trikes with indirect steering. That is something I have covered in my previous postings about toe in adjustment. On a few models the rear wheel camber is adjustable. This next video covers that.

I have come up behind trikes that had the rear wheel way off and in need of adjusting the camber angle.

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SETTING UP BOOM LENGTH

Well known triker,Sylvia  Halpern created a video to help others learn about setting up the boom length of their tadpole trikes. This is a subject I have covered a few times over the years. HERE is one of those articles.

And here are some other videos covering this subject …

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Why wish upon a star when you can talk to the  One (Jesus) Who created them?

TODAY IS THE OLDEST YOU’VE EVER BEEN, YET THE YOUNGEST YOU’LL EVER BE SO – ENJOY THIS DAY WHILE IT LASTS FOR THIS IS A DAY THE LORD HAS MADE! REJOICE AND BE GLAD IN IT!

“NORMAL” is not coming back … JESUS IS!

TADPOLE TRIKE MAINTENANCE 2024 UPDATE

Well made tadpole trikes require very little maintenance once everything is set up properly. At least they should not. It is good to know the basics involved. Watching videos like these are helpful.

Here is the previous video …

It is about 4 years old but I did not come upon it until I posted it back in Nov. 2023 … https://tadpolerider.com/2023/11/17/recumbent-trike-maintenance-workshop/

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Why wish upon a star when you can talk to the  One (Jesus) Who created them?

TODAY IS THE OLDEST YOU’VE EVER BEEN, YET THE YOUNGEST YOU’LL EVER BE SO – ENJOY THIS DAY WHILE IT LASTS FOR THIS IS A DAY THE LORD HAS MADE! REJOICE AND BE GLAD IN IT!

“NORMAL” is not coming back … JESUS IS!

LEARNING HOW TO TRUE A WHEEL

Have you got a wobbly wheel? Most wheel wobble problems can be fixed. Here are a couple of videos to help you learn how to go about adjusting the spokes to true a wheel.

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“NORMAL” is not coming back … JESUS IS!

MY REPORT ON/REVIEW OF THE GREENSPEED MAGNUM SD

I know some of you have asked me to provide a report on or review of the Greenspeed Magnum SD trike I am now the proud owner of. Well, I tell you … it is a mixed review as I have things about it I really like and a few things about it I don’t care for at all. This model is designed to handle 400 pounds. I weigh less than 250 pounds. Obviously a person weighing 400 pounds is most likely a lot larger than I am. The trike has a 16 inch wide seat which is 2 inches wider than most tadpole trike seats. Sitting on the seat I find I am as cramped in space as my Catrike. I find it hard to believe this trike is suppose to be designed for large people. Another factor which bothers me is that the seat is quite short in depth … that is the front to back area one sits on. There is just not enough of it. Again, I would think it would be even worse for a larger person than myself. I think it could be twice as deep as it is. It would make it feel a lot more comfortable. The seat feels like it is made for a very small person.

The Magnum is 8 pounds heavier than my Catrike. With the Bafang motor mounted on the end of the boom it is all I can do to lift it especially with the spindly handlebars that are found on indirect steering trikes. I keep the trike in the back of my pickup truck so it is a challenge to lift the front end up onto the tailgate. Once the front wheels are on the tailgate getting the back end lifted up and the trike rolled on in is easy enough.

The handlebars are adjustable both in width and pivoting forward and backward. That sounds great, but I have the handlebars set as wide apart as possible. Any farther and they hit on the fenders and keep the trike from turning as sharp as it should be turning. Yet there is barely room for my body to fit between them. As I pedal the trike my hands are right up against my legs and my clothing rubs back and forth on my hands which very annoying and uncomfortable. And, of course, it means I can’t turn as sharp as I should be able to. I can’t imagine what it would be like for a larger person. I would like to see the handlebars made so they come up over the top of the fenders. I think they should be higher anyway to be more comfortable. In my drawing below I have made them wider than they should be as I would not want them any wider than the fenders.

 

Along with the handlebars is the steering. This trike is indirect steering. My homemade trike and my Catrike both had direct steering which I definitely prefer. Many claim that direct steering is too sensitive and claim indirect steering is not therefore making it better than direct steering. Well, this Greenspeed has very sensitive steering and is a bit scary to me.

On my Catrike I ride in between bollards at 15 mph as I have about one inch clearance on each side. But not so with this Greenspeed. I barely fit in between the posts. In fact, I was touching on both sides as I passed thru very slowly. So that is another thing I don’t like.

My Catrike had a more solid safe feel to it when riding it. Again, hopefully this will change for me as time passes and I will feel more comfortable and safe on the Greenspeed.

The water bottle mount is too far back on the boom. If it were just 4 inches further forward the water bottle would stay in place much better. Twice now it has fallen out of the holder as I ride along. Somebody wasn’t thinking when they mounted it clear to the back of the boom.

That is about all the negative things I can think of. I like the trike otherwise. It rides nice. rolls great and is a nice looking trike. I like the drum brakes and the quick release front hubs.

I have the seat set down as low as it will go which is considerably higher than my Catrike Trail seat. On my Catrike I found it a bit challenging getting up out of the seat. I have always had to use my hands and arms t push myself up out of the seat. I had assist bars on the Catrike. On the Greenspeed Magnum I can stand up out of the seat easily without using my hands and arms.

The trike came with a Bacchetta Big Bag which slips over the back of the seat. I have a set of panniers and rear rack bag I was using on my Catrike, but I decided to use this Bacchetta Big Bag as in doing so it will free up my rear rack. I mounted a battery on the rear rack which I would not have been able to do if I used my rear rack bag. The Bacchetta Big Bag is indeed big. I can get all my stuff in it. If I  need more storage space I can always use the panniers.

The trike also came with a neckrest. It is better than most neckrests trike manufacturers sell, but it does not begin to compare to a Finer Recliner or my homemade one. I will probably end up replacing it with my homemade one. I will have to fabricate the mount to do so. This Greenspeed neckrest is too stiff for me and gives me a headache.

Now to the Bafang crank drive e-motor: I have mostly had hub drive e-motors in the past and I really like a hub drive. I had one Tongsheng crank drive system and didn’t like it at all. It destroyed my expensive idler pulleys in about a month’s time in the drive train and the motor quit working altogether within 60 days. So I have not been a fan of crank drive systems. I have always heard that they are hard on drive trains and my local bike shop mechanics fully agree. And now I have another one … a Bafang this time around. It is very quiet. I can’t even hear it. It is set up for 9 levels of power for which I am thankful as I prefer that over the optional 5 or 3 levels. I noticed right away that unless I use level one or two when I pedal I am not contributing anything. From level 3 and higher the motor does all the work and I am only ghost pedaling. I don’t like that. Even power level two I don’t feel much resistance on the pedals. And this is cadence sensing not torque sensing which I definitely don’t care for. One needs to be careful using the e-motor system as there is not the control one feels comfortable with. Pedaling starts the motor and the trike can suddenly take off with more power and speed than is desirable. Of course, the rider needs to be careful not to have the motor energized when upshifting or downshifting. I notice that the motor gets pretty warm each time I use it … warmer than I think it should. Resetting the tripometer is a pain. One has to go into settings each time to do it rather than just have a designated button to push and hold to reset it.

Installing the Bafang motor means that the three front chainrings are removed and only one chainring remains. I haven’t counted but I think it is a 42 tooth. That means the gear range is changed drastically. I don’t like this. I no longer have low enough gearing nor high enough gearing. I spin out at about 16 mph which is ridiculous. And hill climbing without the aid of the motor is out of the question. No more granny gear and I really miss it. With a rear hub drive I still had all my gears which I really liked. This is just one more reason I am not a fan of crankdrive motors.

There is one last thing I wanted to address … the Schwalbe Big Apple tires that come on the Greenspeed Magnum. They are 2 inch width. I have been running 2.15 inch wide Big Ben Plus tires on my Catrike and love them. Only .15 inch difference in their size but there is a world of difference in their physical size. The Big Ben Plus tires are much larger … truly a balloon tire in comparison. And they ride like a balloon tire whereas the Big Apple tires just seem like any other tire, but not a balloon tire. I definitely will be switching to the Big Ben Plus in the future as there is nothing about the Big Apples that impresses me. I will probably have to readjust the fenders which will, no doubt, worsen the handlebar problem I spoke of.

That is my initial report on the Greenspeed Magnum SD. Despite the negative things I think I can safely say that I am liking it better with each daily ride which is a good thing … a very good thing. I believe this is an honest report/review of this trike. I am undecided about the Bafang motor. I may end up uninstalling it and installing a hub motor system in its place.

KEEP ON TRIKIN’

FREE GIFT AWAITS YOU!

TODAY IS THE OLDEST YOU’VE EVER BEEN, YET THE YOUNGEST YOU’LL EVER BE SO – ENJOY THIS DAY WHILE IT LASTS FOR THIS IS A DAY THE LORD HAS MADE! REJOICE AND BE GLAD IN IT!

You are invited to come join the Tadpole Rider Facebook Group. Please note that in order to join you must first answer the three membership vetting questions.

“NORMAL” is not coming back … JESUS IS!

RECUMBENT MAINTENANCE BASICS

Here is a video which covers several maintenance matters with our trikes.

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NEW ADJUSTABLE CRANKARMS FROM HASE

Hase is offering a great looking product … adjustable crankarms which can be set between 65 mm and 165 mm … quicklly, easily … and without the use of tools. HERE is an article about them on Recumbent News. Adjustable crankarms are never cheap but these are super expensive ($452US, 350 Eur). They are really nice though. As you can see in the picture there is a red button to push to adjust them.

Like a chain gobbler these would be really nice for dealerships which allow customers to ride their bikes and trikes trying them out. Unfortunately the bicycle industry does not  offer shorter crankarms on their cycles. Many of us could greatly benefit from using shorter crankarms.

I have written about shortened crankarms previously.

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A FREE GIFT awaits you!

FRONT END SHIMMY

It is definitely a scary thing to be going along and suddenly experience a bad case of front end wobble, shimmying or shaking whether you are in a car, motorcycle, bicycle or trike. It can be quite unnerving … downright scary. And it is even scarier when it happens at a high speed which seems to be when it happens the most. You can be going along and everything is fine … then suddenly you are like Elvis … all shook up.. My experience is that hitting a bump just right (maybe just WRONG) sets off the front end shimmy. About all one can do to end it is slow down. Of course, we would much prefer this doesn’t happen. So what is the cause of it? That is not something that can always be answered quickly and accurately as it can be the result of one of a few different things or a combination of them. It can be worn front end components such as tie rod ends. It can be poor inferior design. Some trikes are simply not made well and are well known for this problem. It can be toe in adjustment is off. I personally find that the most common cause is the headsets need to be reset as they loosen up. The type of headsets that Catrike uses is notorious for this. Catrike in their excellent engineering even redesigned the headset as the stock headset had a bad problem of shimmying as the manufacturer designed it. Catrike removed the upper bearing and replaced it with a Teflon bushing to help with this. BTW, Catrike owners may need to replace these at some point in time. You can get them from a Catrike dealer, from Catrike or other sources such as Utah Trikes. They can be bought individually or you can buy both for $25.

This Utah Trikes video covers resetting the headsets … starting at about six minutes into the video … and again at about 7 minutes 50 seconds into the video.

There is one thing that was not mentioned and seldom is. For the best results the rider should be sitting in the seat in the riding position so that the rider’s weight is loaded onto the headsets. This works best to have someone else do the mechanical work unless someone else can take the rider’s place who weighs the same. With proper headset adjustment it should help to eliminate front end shimmy. I wish you well in resolving this issue. It has worked for me. Do your best to be safe so that you can …

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A FREE GIFT awaits you!

ACCOMMODATING SHORT RIDERS by SHORTENING the BOOM

We as people come in all sorts of different sizes and shapes. That is why the X-seam measurement is so important. Inseam measurement won’t do.  Those who are quite short or quite tall can and often do run into problems finding things that fit them. That includes tadpole trikes. But there is help so don’t give up. NO you don’t have to undergo surgery to have your legs lengthened. Actually there are various options including adjustable seats … something I personally advise people to avoid as moving the seat back and forth on the frame changes the weight distribution and effects the handling and safety of the trike. The same is true when cushions of any kind are used to move the rider further forward in the seat. By far the best way to accommodate a short rider is to shorten the boom.

If the trike’s “boom” does not slide far enough in to allow the rider to reach the pedals properly the boom can be shortened by cutting off the end which goes into the mating part of the trike frame. This is a common practice. Trike dealers do this all the time. However, I caution anyone doing this not to cut any more off of the boom than what is necessary to reach the pedals. The boom should go into the mating frame as far as it can so that the entirety of the boom is strong. Please be aware that shortening a boom slightly devaluates a trike’s worth when one goes to sell it. Definitely this is something which should be disclosed to anyone who is considering buying the trike. If it is being purchased by someone who is tall then a new boom might need to be purchased in order for the boom to be able to extend far enough to accommodate them.

I myself am short and my boom has been shortened. Oh yes, another thing which helps short riders I highly recommend is shorter crankarms. I also use these and it has helped me tremendously.

Yes, there really is hope and help for short riders. You too can …

ENJOY THE RIDE!

FREE GIFT awaits you!

SETUP & ADJUSTMENT OF MECHANICAL DISC BRAKES

This is a subject like many others where you can find varying opinions and instructions on how to go about setting up and adjusting mechanical disc brakes. I only have and use Avid BB7 brakes. I started off with Avid BB5 brakes which I would not wish on my worst enemy as the saying goes. They are junk in my opinion. They required almost constant daily adjustment which got old quick. The BB7 is a far superior brake and well worth the additional expense over the BB5 brakes. The main difference between the two besides the brake pads is that the BB5 brake only has one adjustment knob for the brake pad … that is, only one side can be adjusted. The other side is stationary. The BB7 has adjustment knobs on both sides making it much easier to get proper adjustment initially. And once adjusted the BB7 seems to remain in proper adjustment for quite some time. If you have the BB5 brakes you are on your own as I won’t waste my time trying to instruct how to adjust them as they aren’t worth the time and effort involved. My advice is to upgrade to the BB7s. Anyway, I am not going to link to the instructions of others here, but rather I am simply going to share how I go about setting up and adjusting the brakes.

To start out it is important that the rotors run true. If they are bent or damaged they need to be repaired or replaced. There is a special tool to use to straighten a bent rotor, but if one lacks this tool an adjustable wrench can be used if the bend is only near the outer part of the disc. If it is further inward toward the center of the disc an adjustable wrench won’t do. I have a Park Tool straightener, but there are other brands available.

If the rotor is straight and true you can move onto the setup of the brake. Basically by setup I mean positioning the brake caliper and brake pads properly on the rotor. Again, not everybody goes about this the same way, but I am only sharing how I do it and it has worked great for me. Ideally it would be best to do all this with the rider of the trike seated on the trike so that the effect of the rider’s weight is taken into consideration as I am sure things would change a little just like the toe in measurement sometimes changes when the rider is seated on the trike. This is especially true if the rider is heavy. I have never done that myself as it would be difficult if one is by themself to sit in the seat and perform this procedure.

It is most important that the caliper be positioned correctly so that the rotor is centered and parallel to the brake pads. Otherwise it is likely that the brake will rub and make noise, especially when cornering. Also the brakes won’t work as well as they could and the brake pads will wear uneven.

The mounting bolts have special washers which are dished and cupped so that they fit together and “adjust” to the positioning of the caliper over the rotor.

The procedure I use to align the caliper and brake pads on the rotor is simply to leave the mounting bolts loose so that the caliper can move freely.

I then sort of wiggle the caliper around while I turn the brake pad adjustments (red plastic knobs) in so that they tighten against the rotor and center the caliper over the rotor. I initially wiggle the caliper around a bit just to ensure it is freely moving while the brake pads are being adjusted in. Turning these adjustment knobs can tighten the brake pads sufficiently to hold against the rotor aligning it properly. I then carefully tighten the mounting bolts being careful not to move the caliper in the process. An alternative way of doing this is to tighten the brake pad adjustment knobs only partially so that squeezing the brake lever will tighten the brake pads on down against the rotor. Holding the brake lever on (or using some means of holding it on) I then tighten the mounting bolts carefully. Now with the caliper and brake pads aligned the brake pads can be adjusted properly.

Here is a video about centering hydraulic disc brakes which is pretty much the same process as mechanical disc brakes with the exception of having to push the pistons back out..

When adjusting the brake pads I simply back them off just enough initially so that they don’t rub when the wheel is spun. I then pull the brake lever to see how it feels. If it is too tight I loosen one of both of the brake pads a bit more. I also look down at the brake pads to see what the gap is looking like as I want to be sure both pads are evenly spaced out from the rotor. One should try to keep the gap between the brake pad and rotor the same on both sides so that when the brake is applied both brake pads make contact at the same time and not be forcing the rotor over to one side. It should remain straight and not flex (be forced) sideways.

Keep in mind that when cornering hard there is some flex in the wheel  and often times some rubbing will occur between the brake pads and the rotor. If this is bothersome the brake pads can be further adjusted out if needed.

Keep in mind that if a wheel is removed or realigned (adjusting the spokes) or a rotor is removed and then reinstalled or a new rotor is installed the caliper and brake pads may need to be realigned. That is what happened to my trike recently. I adjusted the spokes realigning the wheels which resulted in the need to reposition the caliper and brake pads. Once I did that my brakes worked much better. Obviously having properly working brakes is most important. They will help us …

ENJOY THE RIDE!

HERE is a link to all of Park Tool’s videos.

FREE GIFT awaits you!

TERRACYCLE – EXQUISITE RECUMBENT PARTS & ACCESSORIES

TerraCycle, not to be confused with TerraTrike,  is a gold mine for recumbent folks. They have much to offer and if you have never heard of them you really need to get acquainted. Here are their own words:

“TerraCycle has a simple mission: to make parts for recumbent cycles that considerably improve the riding experience. Every day, the TerraCycle Team shows up and uses their hands, hearts and minds to create those parts. We know we’re doing well when Tom Caldwell writes us and says: “Great work, great product, great company—I love doing business with professionals!” When a customer comes back to the shop just to see what new add-ons we’ve created for our accessory mounts, when a team of college kids asks for our idlers on their human powered vehicle, or when a couple comes by to show off the new ways they’ve figured out to use their cockpit mounts, then we know we’re doing it right.

With our website, we hope to create a library of information on recumbent cycling and the technologies that empower those who ride. Over the years, we’ve demonstrated our dedication to making the perfect part, which requires knowing just about all there is to know about recumbent cycling. If you haven’t had the chance to try us out, we recommend it. Otherwise, let this site be a place for you to come to learn about that wheeled craft you’ve been riding around. Who knows, you might realize you need something after all.”

Here is a list of their offerings:

“Accessory Mounting
Assist Arms
Battery Mounts
Cargo Monster Load Carrier
Chain in Bulk
Easy Reacher Underseat Racks
FastBack Hydration & Packs
Fenders
Gift Certificates
Handlebars, Stems & Steering
Idlers & Chain Management
Purple Sky Flags
SeatSide Mount System
Stainless Bolt Kits
TailSoks
Tires & Tubes
Velogenesis Seat Clamps
Windwrap Fairings
Xtras, Blems & Discounts”

They also have a FAQ page which you may find very helpful. Here is a sampling:

“FAQ Directory
Here at TerraCycle, we strive to be the world leader in recumbent cycling knowledge. Below are some topics that have caused more head scratching than brand new helmets, and our best attempts to alleviate the discomfort!

Bearings
Cargo Monster
Handlebar Fitting
Idlers
Diagnosing Drivetrain Noises
Steering Systems
Tire Sizing
Underseat Racks
Windwrap Fairings”

They even speak (or at least write) Latin. You’ll have to look thru their website to know what I am referring to here as I am not going to tell you.

TerraCycle also has some videos available on YouTube.

Please note that there is another company called TerraCycle which deals with recycling waste so don’t get confused with them. Because of the shared name our TerraCycle has to use a different name in their website …” t-cycle”.

For those who have followed my personal triking life you know that I recently had my trike motorized with a pedal assist setup. A TerraCycle mini-cockpit T bar was used to mount the display console on. Here is a picture of it. It is the bar furthest forward with the   green area and the white 0 (zero) displayed on the screen of the dispaly console. The TerraCycle part is only the section shown where their company icon is seen. It is where the display console is mounted. The bottom part is made by a different company (it is the Catrike mirror and accessory mount). The two parts look like they are made as one unit.

Well, that’s all I have to say about that.  I have ordered a couple of items from them in years past and they always provided excellent and quick service. Their parts seem to be very well made … top quality. With their help we can …

KEEP ON TRIKIN’

FREE GIFT awaits you!

HOW DO YOU MEASURE UP?

TerraTrike offers a webpage concerning how to determine your X-seam. X-seam is a measurement similar to inseam which is used to determine how to adjust the boom properly to fit the rider of a tadpole trike. When seated properly on a tadpole trike the rider’s leg should be about 85 % fully extended when the pedal is rotated to its most forward position.

I have written about this subject previously. HERE is one of the articles.

HERE is another webpage on this offering a good illustration. And HERE is another.

I have noticed that the instructions given for this vary somewhat in the matter of how much distance the bottom of the board is out away from the wall. To my way of thinking the safest and best method would be to duplicate the seat back angle more so than a measurement off of the wall. Of course, one must be careful not to move the board while sitting down and going thru the process of obtaining the measurement.

A quick and easy way to adjust the boom to its proper position for the rider is simply to sit in the seat and place the “heel” of the foot (while wearing shoes) on the pedal in the furthest forward position. The boom can then be tightened down and when the balls of the rider’s feet are positioned on the pedals the legs should be about 85 % or so extended.

It is good to know our X-seam measurement as it can be of value for a mechanic to set up a trike for the rider without them being there to go thru this process. Having a trike set up properly helps us to …

ENJOY THE RIDE!

FREE GIFT awaits you!

 

 

 

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